Sunday April 26th
Sites Visited: Volos Museum, Lefkandi (Early Iron Age “Heroon”)
Where did we stay tonight?: Halkida
Leaders: Kathryn Mammel and Kate Ginsberg
It takes a lot to get us excited about an archaeological museum any more, but the Athanaskeio Museum in Volos managed to do just that. Perhaps it was merely because we had the morning off and there was real filter coffee at breakfast (and—as if that weren’t enough—a Starbucks two buildings down the block from the hotel), but the group really came alive at the museum. The museum’s extensive collection of Neolithic finds from all of Thessaly were tastefully and engagingly displayed (see “Inside the Volos Museum” below), and the diachronically arranged, reconstructed graves in the final room of the museum made for one of the best museum displays we’ve seen yet.
We left the museum around 12:30 and proceeded to drive south for the next four hours. We stopped briefly at a rest stop along the way in order that the group might have the important life experiences which are peanut flavored Cheetos and so-called “Turkish toilets” (stalls with large drainage holes in the center rather than toilets).
We reached the modern town of Lefkandi on the island of Euboea shortly before 5:00 and—in what has become a recurring theme of the FSP—walked up to the settlement of Xeropolis, only to stare through the fence. A rousing lecture by Sarah outside the heroon at Toumba, an Early Iron Age cemetery at Lefkandi, then captivated us, even after a long day, and we were all momentarily tempted to become Early Iron Age archaeologists.
Around 7:20 we arrived in Chalkis, where we’ll stay for the night. We were pleasantly surprised by the large rooms and by the presence of a shower curtain, which, along with reliable internet access and real orange juice, is a rare commodity in Greece.
Tomorrow: Eretria, Marathon, and back to Athens. Get excited. We are.
Inside the Volos Museum:
Impressions of Lefkandi:
Day 36 Photo Gallery: