Week 6

Week 6

Sunday April 26th

Sites Visited: Volos Museum, Lefkandi (Early Iron Age “Heroon”)

Where did we stay tonight?: Halkida

Leaders: Kathryn Mammel and Kate Ginsberg

It takes a lot to get us excited about an archaeological museum any more, but the Athanaskeio Museum in Volos managed to do just that. Perhaps it was merely because we had the morning off and there was real filter coffee at breakfast (and—as if that weren’t enough—a Starbucks two buildings down the block from the hotel), but the group really came alive at the museum. The museum’s extensive collection of Neolithic finds from all of Thessaly were tastefully and engagingly displayed (see “Inside the Volos Museum” below), and the diachronically arranged, reconstructed graves in the final room of the museum made for one of the best museum displays we’ve seen yet.

We left the museum around 12:30 and proceeded to drive south for the next four hours. We stopped briefly at a rest stop along the way in order that the group might have the important life experiences which are peanut flavored Cheetos and so-called “Turkish toilets” (stalls with large drainage holes in the center rather than toilets).

We reached the modern town of Lefkandi on the island of Euboea shortly before 5:00 and—in what has become a recurring theme of the FSP—walked up to the settlement of Xeropolis, only to stare through the fence. A rousing lecture by Sarah outside the heroon at Toumba, an Early Iron Age cemetery at Lefkandi, then captivated us, even after a long day, and we were all momentarily tempted to become Early Iron Age archaeologists.

Around 7:20 we arrived in Chalkis, where we’ll stay for the night. We were pleasantly surprised by the large rooms and by the presence of a shower curtain, which, along with reliable internet access and real orange juice, is a rare commodity in Greece.

Tomorrow: Eretria, Marathon, and back to Athens. Get excited. We are. 

Inside the Volos Museum:

Impressions of Lefkandi:


Day 36 Photo Gallery:

Jaunty graffito provides a welcome morning pick-me-up across from the hotel in Volos.

A jaunty graffito provides a welcome morning pick-me-up across from the hotel in Volos.

Neolithic house reconstructions outside of the museum at Volos.

Neolithic house reconstructions outside of the museum at Volos.

Dimitra Rousioti explains the effect that the construction of the Ethniki Odos (National Road) has had on Thessalian archaeology.

Dimitra Rousioti explains the effect that the construction of the Ethniki Odos (National Road) has had on Thessalian archaeology.

Dallis, Alex A. and Kait listen thoughtfully to discussion of the miniature tholos tombs discovered around Volos.

Dallis, Alex A. and Kait listen thoughtfully to discussion of the miniature tholos tombs discovered around Volos.

A Neolithic cup in the Volos museum.

A Neolithic cup in the Volos museum.

Jerry and Alex A. learn about stratigraphy with the aid of the helpful displays in the Volos museum.

Jerry and Alex A. learn about stratigraphy with the aid of the helpful displays in the Volos museum.

Anthropomorphic potsherds from the Early Helladic period.

Anthropomorphic potsherds from the Early Helladic period.

Charlie dutifully obeys the photographer's instructions to look fascinated.

Charlie dutifully obeys the photographer's instructions to look fascinated.

Neolithic female figurines and pregnant bellies.

Neolithic female figurines and pregnant bellies.

A particularly bizarre Neolithic figurine in the Volos museum.

A particularly bizarre Neolithic figurine in the Volos museum.

The old man of the FSP comes face to face with death.

The old man of the FSP comes face to face with death.

Exploring the Classical and Hellenistic remains from Demetrias and Pagasae in the Volos museum.

Exploring the Classical and Hellenistic remains from Demetrias and Pagasae in the Volos museum.

Jerry, Alex M., and Kate check out a display of funerary practices through the ages.

Jerry, Alex M., and Kate check out a display of funerary practices through the ages.

Freshly caught fish advertise the night's menu at a taverna at Lefkandi beach.

Freshly caught fish advertise the night's menu at a taverna at Lefkandi beach.

Charlie, Chris, Alex M. & co. savor a brief and windy perambulation 'round the settlement site (Xeropolis) at Lefkandi after several hours on the bus..

Charlie, Chris, Alex M. & co. savor a brief and windy perambulation 'round the settlement site (Xeropolis) at Lefkandi after several hours on the bus.

Dallis, Kait, KT, and Kate pose outside Xeropolis.

Dallis, Kait, KT, and Kate pose outside Xeropolis.

Sarah lectures outside the Heroon at Toumba, one of the cemeteries at Lefkandi..

Sarah lectures outside the Heroon at Toumba, one of the cemeteries at Lefkandi..

 

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